Saturday, February 2, 2013

Turks & Caicos Islands – October 2007 (Part Four; Hurricane Noel Gets Closer)



DAY FIVE:  Sunday, 28 October 2007

When I went out to the beach, it waves rolling into shore were white-caps.  It was a very different sound than the gentle rolling the waves had been earlier.  That made the morning frolic more fun.  I’d wade out to a point where the water was up to my shoulders, and jump over the wave when it came in.  Because my feet could still touch the sandy bottom, I could get some decent high weight I’d leap over the waves.  Not all were ones I could hurdle, and it was fun when they’d crash into me.



Lee was a little disappointed that the glow worm tour had been cancelled due to the rough weather.  Since these guys only were active during a few nights after the full moon, that would’ve been only one day that we might’ve been able to see them.  She commented that now I could finally go parasailing.  When I checked to make arrangements, I learned that too was cancelled due to the weather.  The same rough waters which made it difficult to see the worms was fueled by the high winds which made parasailing extremely more difficult.

We’d be on the beach until the late morning, as that’s when others would start to come out (and thus it would start to get more crowded).  Since we were heading out to dinner later, there was no reason to head over to one of the shopping establishments again.  We decided to walk a ways down the beach.  I’d taken some strolls by myself on the beach, so it was nice to walk together.  The weather was overcast, but warm, so there was no need to have jackets.  The winds on the beach didn’t feel that bad to us.  Figure the people who live here know if the conditions warrant cancelling tours and things.



Heading westward down the beach, we noticed the section of the beach started to get narrower, but nowhere to the extent we’d seen over in the Blue Hills.  The section of beach in front of RWI had enough room for chairs and for people to wander by, without the feeling of invading personal space.  As he headed towards Point Grace, we noted we’d chosen the best place for the beach.  We’d had gone that far down the beach, perhaps walking for fifteen or twenty minutes, when the weather looked like it was going to turn nasty very quickly.  The most prudent action would be to turn around and head back to RWI before the sky opened up on us.

During the walk back, the wind that had been to our backs was now obviously coming to our front.  Walking into the wind wasn’t an issue, even though the intensity had increased.  It was the sand which had been kicked up by the wind which was the problem.  Hundreds of tiny grains were impacting us as we went down the beach.  It was like we were walking through a sand-blaster.  Running would not have made any difference, so we trudged at the best pace we could.  I guess you could so it was a free exfoliation.  At one point, I walked in front of Lee in order to take brunt of it.  Since I had glasses, I was able to keep my eyes open.  During that time, Lee just placed her hands on my shoulders, and looked down or kept her eyes closed.  But we were able to make it back to our room with only the loss of one layer of skin.

The storm clouds made things dark earlier than normal.  When we were heading out for our early dinner about 4pm, it was almost as dark as it was just after sunset.  There’d been a place I’d wanted to go simply because of the name:  Hemingway’s.  According to the information we had, it was only a short distance down Governor’s Road past where the Saltmills were.

It would’ve been easy to find if we’d paid attention to two important things.  One, Hemingway’s was the restaurant at the Sands At Grace Bay resort.  And Two, the road actually made a T-intersection, not just the hard left which it appeared.  We saw the sign for the Sands, and didn’t realize that if we’d made a right turn and gone about 500 feet or so, we would’ve seen the sign for Hemingway’s.  We thought we hadn’t gotten to where it was yet, and we just had to follow the road down a bit further.  We made a left turn that brought us into another world.

In the dusk-like overcast light, this area appeared darker than normal because there were no street lights.  What surprised us was what appeared to be a true slum which we’d driven in to.  Not “salt-weathered buildings” here, but actual run-down places, with a bunch of dirty-looking people hanging about.  We’d stumbled into Little Jamaica.  There was a gas station at a corner which looked like it had been abandoned.  Since that corner was also a T-intersection, and it had a sign pointing to the left which said “Kingston,” we made the quick decision to turn right.

Soon we were out of this blatantly poorer section, and found ourselves passing the Beaches resort.  We got a little chuckle about that.  We figured due to the proximity to this location, the people at the all-inclusive Beaches probably didn’t want to leave, thinking that the entire island was like that small section.  Once we’d made that turn by the pseudo-gas station in Little Jamaica, the road we were on was officially called Lower Bight Road.  There were a lot of trees, and some high walls of the resorts, so we couldn’t see the beach at all on the drive.  By that time we knew we’d missed Hemingway’s, and figured the sign wasn’t out because it could’ve been closed during the off-season (which was not uncommon here).

We didn’t see any place which jumped out to us as a place to eat, and when we saw a sign to bring us back to the Leeward Highway, we just headed back to RWI for dinner at Mango Reef.  We had the conch fritters, which Lee thought was okay, but I didn’t think was any better.  I was able to get a chicken breast seasoned with Jamaican Jerk spices, and it was fabulous.  All the tables had candles on them, so we essentially had a candle-lit dinner under the open sky.  That was very nice.




DAY SIX:  Monday, 29 October 2007

We woke to rain.  Dark clouds filled the sky, making it a grey landscape out over the ocean.  This was not going to be a day to sit out on the beach.  We couldn’t sit out on the patio, because being on the third floor, it didn’t have an actual roof, just a veranda which let in the rain quite well.  We soon realized the cause of all this crappy weather was Hurricane Noel, and it was bearing down on the island.  It’s path was projected to hit TCI tomorrow, right when we’d be trying to fly out.



Being stranded on a tropical island is a dream, but not when it’s about to have its ass kicked by what was shaping up to be a pretty major storm.  We looked at our choices.  Option one was we could attempt to stay past our normal planned time, and catch a flight once the hurricane passes.  Chances were that anyone coming to our room would be delayed arriving at Providenciales, so it wasn’t like they’d be likely to kick us out.  So what if they charge us for the extra days, RWI would be making money off the room no matter who was in it.  The same would be true for the car rental, and more than likely we’d just be eating at Mango Reef a couple more times (as our groceries were nearly used up).  That would require a lot of juggling of airline costs, which probably wouldn’t be cheap.  And that also added the reality of being home a bit later than intended, and thus losing work days.  We were on our “scheduled vacation time,” so I’m sure our jobs would understand if we got back a day or two later.

Option two was that we stay right where we are, and leave at our planned time, with the hope that the delays wouldn’t be too bad.  It wouldn’t cost us anything extra in hotel or car rental, but there’s potential we’d get stuck at an airport.  Since the storm was moving westward, getting stuck in Miami was the most likely possibility.  Even if our flight got diverted to another American city, we’d still be on the mainland where our phones and credit cards would be fully active again (no roaming fees or international charges).



Option three was that we check out early today, and try to get on the next available flight.  Sure we’d still probably get charged for the last day of the room, and might cost extra to swap the airline tickets, if we could outrun the hurricane it would ultimately be worth the cost.  Using the phone in the room, Lee called the airline to make the arrangements.  I trucked down to the front desk to let them know of our intent.  I’m sure we wouldn’t be only guests trying to do this, and this wasn’t the first time they’d seen this (and wouldn’t be the last).  The people behind the front desk were very helpful in checking on this, and allowed me to speak to the manager about this.  (As the resort arrangements had been made in Lee’s name, the hotel kept referring to me as “Mr. Leibee.”  I wasn’t going to spend the time to correct them, because it wasn’t worth the time to do so, and it wouldn’t make any difference to them anyways.  Besides, I found it mildly amusing, so it didn’t bug me.)

The manager told me if we checked out early, we’d be charged for the room, and I let him know I understood that.  I explained to him that we were even trying to see if we _could_ get a flight out in the first place, and if we did, then we’d proceed with that plan.  This was a good instance of customer service I wanted to point out.  The manager was very clear with letting me know the resort’s policy on guests leaving early, and I was clear as to letting them know our intent.  We were both calm, and took the time to explain our positions to each other.  While the manager wouldn’t change his mind (or couldn’t because the policy was decided by someone above him), he was very understanding about the situation.  I appreciated that.

Once I trekked back to our room, Lee let me know what she’d found out from talking to American Airlines.  Because there were so many people trying to leave early, flights today were over-booked, and many people were hanging out at the airport on standby.  Any flights out would depend on any flights which arrived.  Since there was no guarantee we could get a flight today, there was no reason to check out early and hang around bored in the airport.  Lee said the airlines had told her that at this point no flights for the next day had been cancelled yet, but if that happened, they would be obligated to find us a flight.  The situation dictated that we go with Option Two.  We didn’t have any other choice.  Might as well enjoy the last day we have here.

The clouds were dark and threatening, but there were brave souls still hanging out on the beach.  It made the most sense to join them, and get in much beach time as possible.  We weren’t going to catch too many tanning rays, but just being on the beach was a pleasure in itself.  I didn’t go swimming, only so we wouldn’t have wet clothes to deal with, not because the waves were too rough.



It did try to rain, many times during that time.  It would start to sprinkle, and we’d all start heading for the cover of the bar at Mango Reef.  After a few moments, the sprinkling would taper off, so many would return back to the beach.  The beach chairs might be a little wet, so you just wiped it off with the towel you had with you.  (See, towels have other uses than when you’re hitchhiking across the galaxy.)  This sequence was repeated, and each time Lee and I headed for Mango Reef, and then a little bit later went back to the beach.  It was a Pavlov response in a way, I guess.  Some people did decide to remain at the bar and have drinks.

We did enjoy our last drinks of the trip, and the last dinner at the Mango Reef, but didn’t quite have the sunset we’d been hoping for.  But being able to dine at a location next to where we’re staying is a bonus when going to an unfamiliar place, especially for the fact that we didn’t have to fight traffic or find a parking space.  Normally, Mango Reef would have tables set up outside, but because of the weather we were all packed in the interior dinning room.  Didn’t change the atmosphere of the place at all, just made it more cozy.


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