Saturday, July 19, 2014

St. Croix, US Virgin Islands – August 2012 (Part Seven: More Drives Around the Island)

DAY SEVEN:  Friday, 10 August 2012

            After I greeted the sunrise, I did my last beach walk of the week.  I did get joined by a local, one who’d I’d seen off and on all week swimming in the morning.  This hippie-looking older man didn’t provide a man (but mentioned he’d come down about seven years ago from Oregon).  While he seemed like a nice person, something kept my “spider-sense” going off around this guy, so I didn’t provide any personal info.  He wore a doodad around his neck similar to what I had to keep my room key in when I swam, except he used his to keep his smokes dry.



  I did suggest to Mr. Oregon that the sea weed which washed up each morning could be a good money making venture.  Pay locals to pick it up from the beaches (and pay them $X per pound, so the more motivated ones will get paid better).  Then charge the resorts and other beach-front properties $Y amount per square foot that needs to be picked up.  After removing the saltiness from it, sell the sea weed to farmers as feed and/or fertilizer for $Z amount.  Sounds like a good idea.

After I ran up to the local stop-and-rob (“the red gas station”) and got the morning papers (which was a suggestion from Angie), I went for what I planned to be my last swim.  I didn’t want to swim in the afternoon, only because I wanted my suit and swim shoes to be as dry as possible before bagging them up and putting them into my luggage.  Shelly and Hannah were having their last swim and sun-bathe for the day.  I collected more coral pieces, too.

I’d left a voice message with Kurt Otto before going out for the swim.  I packed some stuff, got cleaned up, and went out for another exploration of the island.  I can honestly say I didn’t do a lot of tourist things, but certainly got a feel of the island.



This place is social Darwinism at work, and Charles Dickens would be proud.  Most of the east-enders are wealthy people, and most of the central and west-enders are poor, with very few middle-class in between.  Because of the economy, the poor prey on the cruise ship tourists (and whoever else they might be able to find during the off-season) because there’s nothing else for them to do.  I’m sure there are other opportunities on the island, but with the laid back attitude of “I’ll get to it whenever I get to it” means many don’t try for opportunities that are available, or attempt to make new ones.  The poor are resentful of the ex-pats who come to the island (whether as a wealthy east-ender or as someone who grabs one of the available jobs), because the natives feel these newcomers are stealing the jobs.  Well, they are, but only because the locals are taking them.

Other islands (Turks & Caicos being the example I learned first-hand) want to hire locals over newcomers, as they see that as a boost to the local infrastructure.  But on St. Croix (and I gathered from what I’d heard, the rest of USVI) that newcomers are preferred over locals, because the newcomers have the drive to work for what they want (as that’s what was able to get them to the island in the first place), as opposed those who’ve always lived with the laid back attitude.  I want the laid back attitude, I rather liked being a beach bum this week, but I’ll only do that on my time.  Not on work time.  When I’m on work time, I do what I need to do to complete my job.  It was commented to me on more than one occasion, that my outlook of that will be beneficial to my long-term survival on the island.

Today’s destination was to hit the south-eastern part of the island.  Not sure what’s out there, as the map doesn’t have anything listed, so I’m sure it’s residential.  If I go too far, it’ll bring me back around to Point Udall.  Figure I’ll get lunch out there as I’m waiting to hear back from Kurt.



I thought about taking Route 753 south to 83 south, then east on 62, and then cut over to the southern portion of 60.  Of course, with 753 not well-marked, I missed that completely.  Instead I just followed 82 east until the intersection of 60 (near where Cheeseburger In America’s Paradise was).  Heading south in 60 was some decent-looking middle-class residential property.  Once 60 turns east at Great Pond Bay (which is the southern edge of the island), and becomes Southshore Road, the views became very nice.  Not as good as those from North Shore Road, but comparable.  (Yes, one is road is the two-word “North Shore,” and the other is the single-word “Southshore.”  Don’t ask me why.  I didn’t name them.)



I took a few shots at a place with a sign marked “Point Elizabeth,” but that wasn’t listed on my map.  The houses got really nice as I headed past the Divi Carnia Bay Resort (which had the island’s only casino across the road from it).  There was also a mini-golf course there, but it didn’t appear to be opened.  Since I was close enough, I made a quick visit of Point Udall again, and then came back along Southshore Road because the views were nice.  I stopped and took some pictures where I could like I’d done the day before.



One note about this second visit to Point Udall, I thought I’d missed something important the first time, and hadn’t realized it until later.  On the first visit, I parked right where the road made a Y (so Coral was parked on the west side of the Millennium Monument).  When I was at the gift shops in Christiansted, I saw a postcard showing there was some very prominent lettering on the rock wall (with the name of the monument, and “Eastern Most Point of the United States” displayed on.  I’m not sure how I could’ve parked Coral in front of this and noticed it.  I’m sure I was looking at the scenery, but I’d like to think that I’m not that blind.



This time when I parked, I parked next to one of the sitting areas built into the rock wall (thus Coral was parked on the north side of the monument).  I walked around to where the letters should be, and saw that it’d been since worn off.  I could barely tell they’d been there at all, so that explained why I hadn’t seen them the first time around.  The Millennium Monument was only dedicated in January 2000, so the weather could’ve worn down the letters.  Probably the letters were stolen.  I’d brought the Turks & Caicos magazine with me this time too, but there was no one out there to take my picture with it.



Because I hadn’t heard anything back from Kurt yet, I back-tracked slightly along 82 (just near the junction for 60) to the Tamarind Reef Resort at Green Cay, only for a little place called Deep Blue Café.  Figured it was close-by enough for lunch.  The chicken fingers were okay, but not as good as those I’d gotten at the Palms.  My cell phone signal was spotty out there, and that’s when I noticed Kurt had left me a voice message.  I wasn’t going to talk to him in a public place (as my business was not everyone’s business).  Also, I wasn’t sure how long the conversation would be.  It could be short (“Come over to my office, Dave”) or a longer conversation (where I’m sure the people at Tamarind Reef wouldn’t want me lurking around).  During lunch, I chatted briefly with the bartender, and watched a little of the swimming events on the Olympics.  I wandered around the Tamarind grounds what I could to get close up shots of Buck Island, and shots from the sugar cane turret on the hill over-looking the resort.



I then shot down 60 again to a turn-off I’d seen earlier, which brought me back to 62.  This was a hilly region, but also home to some cattle farms. Not sure if they were diary or steak (or both), but there wasn’t more than a handful of residences around here.  The water off the coast had the light blue to show it was shallow, and there weren’t any dive sites noted (which may’ve been why there were no resorts out here).  There was a Boy Scout Camp out here, and few places for food.

All along the east-side were houses dotting the hills, and other sections still in the natural state.  Providing that something can boost the economy, there’s lots of places to build and expand into.  The island has so much potential to grow in good ways, unlike St. Thomas, which I’ve been told had grown in bad ways.



I followed 62, and was able to look across the flat land there to see the pipes of the closed Hovensa (Hess) Refinery.  Once at the intersection for 83, I used that to get to 753.  Where 83 became 753 was slightly confusing in its design, and missing a turn took me into the island version of a trailer park.  A quick U-turn got me back to where I needed to be.  The first section of 753 was hilly curvy road, then became two-lane parkway (some parts still under construction), and then brought me back to the intersection of 75, where I could head back towards the Palms.  (This was the intersection I’d missed earlier today.)  The section of 753 close to the intersection was similar in quality to some of the back streets of Christiansted, and understood why there was a police station at the corner.  Essentially, I’d done the route I’d planned, just in reverse.

Back at the Palms, I called Kurt back, and spent some time explaining my situation and what I was seeking.  I know there wouldn’t be much call for automotive things here, but I figured the arbitration skill was transferable to other disciplines.  Kurt did agree with that, and mentioned some of the same stuff Gerry had mentioned earlier (like the mediation stuff through Nancy Clark).

Would I consider the visit a success?  Yes.  Made some connections in ways I could’ve never done at home.  Learned more about the island in ways that Fodor’s or Frommers could ever tell me.  Certainly met a number of nice people, which more than likely I’ll never see again.  (When I commented was so-and-so on FaceBook or asked for email addresses, didn’t get concrete responses, so there weren’t too many new entries into my address book.)  And I had a good relaxing week away from work, and the stresses from home.



Did I get any job offers?  No.  Honestly didn’t expect to, and would’ve been greatly surprised if I did.  Didn’t buy as many trinkets for others as I would’ve liked.  Didn’t see a lot of places to do that here, and much of what I did see was pretty average.  Wasn’t impressed by any coffee mugs, so there wasn’t any reason to get any.  I made sure to bottle up some sand and water from the beach (like I’d done on the last trip to Turks & Caicos).

And the whole build-up I had about bringing home a suitcase full of rum ended up being not necessary.  Anything I saw at the Cruzan Distillery I could get at home (although at twice the cost).  I didn’t see any “special flavors” available only at the distillery.  Customs allows U.S. residents returning to the mainland from the Virgin Island to be able to bring back five liters of alcohol (six, if one of those liters is domestically-produced).  I could’ve easily fit five or six bottles of the 750 ml or one liter quantity in the suitcase (and had brought enough bubble-wrap, cardboard, and duct tape to secure them properly).  The final decision was it was just easier not having to worry about it on the way home, as I still had three flights to deal with.  No matter how well I packed it, I’d be wondering if it survived the trip or not, and I was pretty sure TSA would open the suitcase and undo the nice packing job I did.

I was writing this journal long-hand into a spiral notebook.  It made it easy to have with me when sitting on the beach or at a lunch restaurant (and not having to worry about carrying my laptop around with me).  Sure it’ll take some time to transcribe it back into the computer, but that’s how I chose to do it.  I only brought two pens with me, and the first died on Day Three.  I was figuring the resort might have some pens with their logo laying about I could snag, but didn’t see any.  Hope this one lasts me the rest of the way home.  I have freakin’ dozens of pens at home and work (because they keep ending up at my desk), so there’s no need to purchase a pack of something I rarely use.  Going through Miami airport is always a fucking adventure, so I’m sure I’ll have a lot to say about that.

To the casual reader, it may sound like I didn’t do much.  Sure a lot of the morning was the same routine of sitting on the patio to watch the sunrise, walking along the beach, and taking a morning swim.  But that was what I wanted out of this, to be able to relax.  I didn’t do as much sitting on the beach (“working on the tan”) as I did at Turks & Caicos, simply because I wanted to explore the area.  And since there was more which could be reached by car here on St. Croix, it made sense to explore more and make the rental car worth it.  I had considered taking a ferry over to St. Thomas for one day, or perhaps a side trip to BVI, but didn’t feel I needed to do so on this trip.  The historical areas on Turks & Caicos, by the way, would require ferry and/or sea plane trips, things which would end up making the vacation more expensive.

If I did have another week at my disposal on the initial foray, I certainly would’ve opted for the ferry to explore St. Thomas, and what I could of St. John (thus incurring the extra costs).  Madam Giselle (the cleaning lady) had commented there was going to be hardly anyone at the Palms the following week, so there was only going to be half the house-keeping staff.  When I was planning the trip initially, I had looked at either first or second full-week in August, and only went with the first because of the good flights (at the time).  Had I come the second week, while the experiences would’ve been similar in exploring, I would’ve not encountered the people I did, including Angie (who ended up one of the most important contacts I made).



After today’s exploration, I spent a couple hours working on the tan, which ultimately will not make me any darker than when I’d left.  I then did a couple more walks up and down the beach in order to rack up some more miles on the pedometer (still with “blinking battery”) as I continued to work on the tan.  Many of the pictures I’d taken from the patio had been of the sun rising, and I knew I’d need to take some pictures of the sun setting before I left.  Only had tonight left to do it.



Once cleaned up, I went for the evening rum punch with the Houston gang.  They always headed out for dinner at 7pm, and they had more money to drop on these trips.  That’s why I only ate lunch out, and have been eating cold cuts for dinner.  I’d eaten up all the foodstuffs I had, excepting for what I’d consume during travelling tomorrow.  On the last night here, I’d already planned to eat dinner at the Palms.  To me, it also made sense as I had to get up ass-early the next morning for the flight out.  (The original flight plan, as I’d pointed out, was originally to have me leave at 2pm.)  The Houston group some-how didn’t have a flight out until 11am tomorrow, so they had more time to play tonight.  They only had one lay-over too.  Lucky bastards.  >grin<



For my last dinner at the Palms, I had a good piece of grilled chicken with a cucumber relish, which was very good.  I also took the opportunity to thank Shelia for the great time I had this week.  She did mention that one of her friends was in the process of moving to Austin, so I still couldn’t escape the Texas connection of this place.  Since there were a large number of people checking out Saturday morning, they prepared the bills ahead of time so people could clear them tonight, instead of having to do it the next day.  I took advantage of that.  I had one breakfast, one lunch, and two dinners (counting this one) at the Palms.



More my last drink of the trip, as I’d already had my rum punch, I went for the closest I could for an alcoholic milkshake, thus got a mudslide.  The bartender that was there (it wasn’t Willie) mentioned there’s a rum variation of that called a “Bushmaster.”  I commented had I realized that, I would’ve gotten one of those instead.

Not a chronological comment, but something I thought of here, so I may have to do an appendix of general observations of things I hadn’t mentioned earlier.  There’s no sales tax on the island.  What ever you pay for food is what you pay, before adding tip.  On anything you purchase for that matter.  It’s something you don’t even think about until you happened to look at your receipt.



For more information on the places visited or mentioned:
            Divi Carnia Bay Resort:  http://www.divicarina.com/DiviCarina/
            Tamarind Reef:  http://www.tamarindreefresort.com/



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