Saturday, October 11, 2014

Rosenberg Library & Tall Ship Elissa (Galveston, TX; September 2013 -- Part Four B)

DAY FOUR – 11 SEPTEMBER 2013:


Near the visitor’s center was the Rosenberg Library Museum, which I’d read had a small gallery on the upper floors.  This is still a modern public library, too, so there wasn’t any admission cost.  The museum (located on the fourth level) had displays on various artifacts from Galveston’s history, much of it dealing with the turn of the 20th Century.



One of the things I found interesting was this blue glass bottle, called a “fire grenade.”  Filled with chemicals, it was used by the fire department to get to areas where the hoses might not reach.  I looked at this as the reverse of the Molotov Cocktail, and wondered how many of these “grenades” have survived.



Since it was time for lunch, we set out to find some of the places mentioned on the tram tour.  We located the Star Drug Store, which still has a huge Coke sign out front.  Originally built in 1886, the building was renovated a couple times.  After a severe fire in 1998, a restoration project to return this to the look of the 1950’s, when the center lunch counter was the first to be desegregated in the city.  Mum was able to get the vanilla Coke, which she remembered having when she was young.  I let her know it could be purchased at most stop-and-robs, but didn’t frequent corner stores to know that.  Besides, she added, the fountain made version would be better than any bottled version.  Can’t argue with that.



There were display cases all around the edge of the store, which contained a lot of items … some many decades old, and some fairly recent.  It gave us a lot of interesting things to look at while we were waiting for our food.  This was a great place for lunch, and still a local favorite.  A had a nice chocolate milkshake to so along with my meal.




When travelling with a group, you have to look at things that everyone would want to do.  The Pirates of the Gulf Coast looked pretty interesting to me, but I wanted to hit things which I think we’d all like.  And I didn’t want to come down to Galveston for a third day, as I wanted to see what else was in the Webster area.  I figure I’ll come back at some time later to hit that, as well as two other things which caught my attention (which is why I’m mentioning them here):  Haunted Mayfield Manor, and the Galveston Railroad Museum.  Both of these are located in the same vicinity of the Pirates, so all within easy access.

One item which I thought we’d get a more historical bang for our buck was the Pier 21 Theatre, which had a film on 1900 Hurricane.  Finding Pier 21 was easy (as they’re all marked with bright red flags), but find where to park was more difficult (as that wasn’t very well marked).  We did find the public lot, and the theatre would validate your parking for about two hours, so that’s a good little tidbit to know.



Since the naming of hurricanes has only been since the 1950’s, any prior storms where just usually known by the year it happened.  If there was more than one massive storm in a season, that was probably part of the reason why they were given “names.”  The hurricane that devastated Galveston in 1900 was aptly named “The Great Storm,” as it’s been the worst one to hit there in recorded history.  At that time, the island was only about eight feet above sea level, so a thirty-foot storm surge wielded massive destructive power.  The film showed the early footage of this thriving port city during the height of the cotton boom, followed by an explanation of the tragic events, and then the newsreels of the aftermath.  Hundreds dead, thousands injured, and millions in damage doesn’t even describe the impact.



Part of the presentation also showed how the entire city was lifted about eight feet, and the twenty-foot Seawall was built to protect against future storms.  It took a couple years to complete, and the millions it took to build where in the currency of the day (so a similar undertaking today would be in the billions, in order to put that in perspective).  There were many at the time who felt spending so much was foolish.  But when a hurricane in 1915 rolled through the area, and most of force was deflected by the Seawall, it showed this was well-worth the money.  As bad as Alicia and Ike were when they hit, their effects were also minimized because of this too.



We still had free time in the parking lot, so we went next door to the Texas Seaport Museum where the 1877 Tall Ship Elissa was, only to find the vessel was in the process of being refurbished.  The museum was open, but running at half-price because the main attraction wasn’t currently available.  The most destructive storm to roll into Galveston since 1900 was Hurricane Ike, with a tidal surge of 22 feet, and winds of 110 mph.  While the museum was severely damaged and subsequently repaired, the damage to the hull of Elissa remained undetected until 2011.  The were seriously rotted, so a restoration project began to save it.  We couldn’t go on the boat, but were still able to take pictures of it sitting in the dock.



In addition to information about the damage and restoration, the Texas Seaport Museum showed the history of the shrimping industry of the area (no Bubba Gump brand available here).  It also had a section on the waves of immigration (mostly Germans) that came through here, as Galveston was known for a period as “South Ellis Island”).  There were some other restaurants and small shops around the area within walking distance, so take advantage of the parking in the area.

We had another major target which we’d learned about on the tram tour, which was an old fashioned candy and ice cream store, except we couldn’t remember where it was (considering the zig-zag nature we’d done).  We remembered it was on one of the streets that paralleled the pier area (in the historic “Strand” district), so I just methodically went up and down each street.  That allowed us to see something which were mentioned on the tour that we didn’t get pictures of, like the arch constructed by the first Mardi Gras held on the island…



…to thing which were just sitting randomly in the city with any any given explanation.  This giant horn being one of the examples, as there was no indication as to why it was there.  This wasn’t a freakin’ music store, and I didn’t see any sign as to why what the significance was.  Let’s just chalk this up to pure weirdness.



Soon we located La King’s Confectionery, which dates back to the 1920’s, and still has that feel of that period.  It easy image this didn’t look very different than it did when it first opened.  The place also bought the recipes for “Purity Ice Cream,” which was Texas’ first ice cream manufacturer, founded back in 1889 in Galveston.  Of course we needed to stop and get ice cream.



I ordered my second chocolate milkshake of the day, and whoa Nelly, what a milkshake it was!  As a kid I remember ordering shakes, and the metal container they were mixed in being brought to you with the full cup (so there was enough for almost another serving there).  The milkshake I received at La King’s came in the metal mixing container, and held enough for _three full glassfuls_.  That was ultimate milkshake saturation, and worth every penny.  At that point, I couldn’t give a damn about dinner, because I was full for the evening.



We looked up and down all the cases which contained various types of candy.  These cases went as far as the building was long, so it was almost as long as the ice cream side of the building.  Since I work with some diabetics, I had to note the entire case of sugar-free candy.  With our sweet tooth satisfied, we made a quick discussion to see if there was anything else we wanted to hit while we were here.  The Moody Mansion was now closed for the day, but beyond that we reasonably hit everything in the area that we wanted to see.



On the drive out, we pulled into a random parking lot in order to get pictures of the statue of the Victory in the center of the main street.  We’d seen this previous day and on the tram tour, but weren’t in the position to get a good look at this.  The bronze figure alone is 22 feet tall.  This was the Texas Heroes Monument, dedicated by Henry Rosenburg in April 1900 to honor those who served in the Revolution of 1836.  A bit of lore was that she pointed in the direction of where the “red light” district was, back when this was a massive cotton port, so it was easy for the visiting sailors to locate their houses of ill-repute.  That’s a bit of trivia I’m sure isn’t widely known, except to those who deal in the historical nature of things.



It was rush hour again as we were leaving Galveston, and I made sure to point to my parents the circular blue roads signs here.  Those were the marked evacuation routes.  Now picture this bridge we were going over, and the entire population of the island trying to leave at once.  There’s a reason why you pay attention to the weather service.  We weren’t that hungry after our swim, and ended up having appetizers for dinner at a Cheddars (only because we knew what we get on the menu).  That gave us some opportunity to plan out our attack for the next day.



For more information on the places visited or mentioned:
            Rosenberg Library Museumhttp://rosenberg-library-museum.org/
            Star Drug Store:  http://www.galvestonstardrug.com/
            Pirates of the Gulf Coasthttp://www.piratesgulfcoast.com/
            Haunted Mayfield Manor:  http://www.hauntedmayfieldmanor.com/
            Galveston Railroad Museumhttp://www.galvestonrrmuseum.com/
            Pier 21 Theatre:  http://www.galvestonhistory.org/The_Great_Storm.asp
            Texas Seaport Museumhttp://www.galvestonhistory.org/texas_seaport_museum.asp
            La King’s Confectionery:  http://www.lakingsconfectionery.com/



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